Magliano in Toscana: A Walled Hilltop Gem in the Heart of the Maremma
Rising above a sea of olive groves and vineyards in southern Tuscany, Magliano in Toscana is one of the Maremma’s best-kept secrets. Its almost perfectly preserved circuit of medieval and Renaissance walls encloses a small world of quiet stone lanes, Romanesque churches, and panoramic terraces looking out toward the Tyrrhenian coast.
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Unlike the busier hill towns of central Tuscany, Magliano moves at the unhurried rhythm of the Maremma. Here you come for slow lunches of wild boar and pecorino, glasses of Morellino di Scansano poured by the winemaker, and evening walks along walls that have watched over this landscape for more than five centuries.
A Brief History: From the Aldobrandeschi to Siena
Magliano’s story stretches back to Etruscan times — the nearby necropolis of Heba testifies to a settlement flourishing here long before Rome. The medieval town grew under the powerful Aldobrandeschi family, lords of much of the Maremma, before passing to the Republic of Siena in the 14th century.
It was Siena that gave Magliano its defining feature: the imposing defensive walls, reinforced in the 15th century, that still ring the town almost intact. Walking their perimeter today, you can read the town’s layered history in the masonry — medieval stonework below, Renaissance bastions above — with sweeping views over olive groves that run all the way to the sea.
Magliano in Toscana, Tuscany: Map
What to See in Magliano in Toscana
The Town Walls
Magliano’s walls are among the best preserved in the Maremma and the town’s undisputed highlight. A walk along Via di Circonvallazione follows their outer edge, passing towers and gates such as Porta Nuova and Porta San Giovanni. At sunset, the golden light on the stone and the views toward Monte Argentario are unforgettable.
Churches of San Giovanni Battista and San Martino
Inside the walls, the church of San Giovanni Battista blends a Romanesque core with a Renaissance travertine facade and Gothic touches — a compact summary of the town’s whole architectural history. Nearby, the smaller church of San Martino is one of Magliano’s oldest buildings, with fragments of medieval fresco still visible inside.
The Ruins of San Bruzio
Just outside town, surrounded by olive trees, stand the hauntingly beautiful ruins of the abbey of San Bruzio, an 11th-century Romanesque monastery. Its roofless apse and truncated dome rising from open countryside make it one of the most atmospheric — and photogenic — sights in the Maremma.
The Witch’s Olive Tree
In the grounds of the church of the Annunziata grows the famous Olivo della Strega, the “Witch’s Olive Tree,” a gnarled giant believed to be many centuries old. Local legend claims witches once danced beneath its branches; today it is a beloved symbol of a territory where olive cultivation has shaped the landscape for millennia.
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Food and Wine: Morellino Country
Magliano sits in the heart of the Morellino di Scansano DOCG zone, and Sangiovese-based reds are the pride of the area. Many local estates welcome visitors for tastings among the vines, often paired with the town’s other treasure: extra-virgin olive oil pressed from the groves that surround the walls.
At the trattorie inside the old town, look for Maremma classics — acquacotta (a hearty vegetable and bread soup), pappardelle with wild boar ragù, and pecorino from local shepherds. In summer, tables spill out onto the lanes and dinner stretches long into the warm evening.
Exploring the Surroundings
Magliano makes an ideal base for exploring the southern Maremma. Within an easy drive you’ll find the Parco Regionale della Maremma with its wild beaches and walking trails, the seaside village of Talamone, the glamorous Argentario peninsula with Porto Ercole and Porto Santo Stefano, and the steaming natural hot springs of Saturnia. The hamlets of Pereta and Montiano, each with its own tower and tangle of medieval lanes, are minutes away and well worth a detour.
Conclusion: Why Visit Magliano in Toscana
Magliano in Toscana distills everything travelers love about the Maremma: authentic village life within Renaissance walls, superb wine and olive oil, empty country roads, and the coast close at hand. Stay in a luxury villa nearby and you can have it all — morning markets and abbey ruins, afternoons on Argentario beaches, and evenings with a glass of Morellino as the sun drops behind the walls.
FAQs
Where is Magliano in Toscana?
Magliano in Toscana is a walled hilltop town in the Maremma, in the province of Grosseto, southern Tuscany. It sits between the Tyrrhenian coast and the inland hills, about 25 minutes from Talamone and the Parco della Maremma and under an hour from the Argentario peninsula.
What is Magliano in Toscana famous for?
The town is best known for its remarkably intact medieval and Renaissance walls, the Romanesque ruins of the San Bruzio abbey, the millenary “Witch’s Olive Tree,” and its position in the Morellino di Scansano wine country.
How long should I spend in Magliano?
The town itself can be enjoyed in half a day — walk the walls, visit the churches, and linger over lunch. Combined with San Bruzio, a wine tasting, and a detour to Pereta or Montiano, it makes a very full and rewarding day out.
Is Magliano in Toscana good for wine lovers?
Absolutely. Magliano lies within the Morellino di Scansano DOCG area, and numerous estates around the town offer cellar visits and tastings. Local olive oil is equally celebrated — many producers sell directly from the farm.
What beaches are near Magliano in Toscana?
The wild, unspoiled beaches of the Parco Regionale della Maremma (such as Collelungo and Marina di Alberese) and the coves of the Argentario are within easy reach, as are the long sandy stretches near Talamone and Ansedonia.
When is the best time to visit?
Late spring and early autumn are ideal: warm days, quiet lanes, and the countryside at its greenest. September and October add the grape harvest, while November brings the olive harvest and new oil. Summer is perfect for combining the town with the nearby coast.
Can you visit the San Bruzio ruins?
Yes. The ruins of the 11th-century abbey stand in open countryside about a kilometer from the town walls and are freely accessible. Sunset is the most atmospheric time to visit.
Is Magliano a good base for exploring the Maremma?
It is one of the best. From Magliano you can easily reach Saturnia’s hot springs, the hill towns of Scansano and Capalbio, the Giardino dei Tarocchi sculpture garden, the Argentario coast, and the Parco della Maremma — all while staying in one of the region’s most authentic walled towns.
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